Sleeping mountain (Mt Tuntog) lies to the south western edge of the island of MotaLava. As you approach the island by boat, the prominent rocky pinnacle gives the Island a proud distinguished appearance that sets it apart from the other islands in the Bank’s Groups.

Earlier last year on a boat ride over to assist a research project, a local Ni-Vanuatu man gave me a taste of the “kustom storian” about the mountain and how the locals reveal the wonderful panoramic view to visitors that the peak has to offer, I couldn’t possibly be here in this remote location without exploring.

Alex, my chaperone escorted me with his uncle Ben as our guide. The land has been passed down to Alex’s uncle from ancestor and through the custom court. I would describe Ben as your typical “man bush”. Armed with a machete and a stern frown he takes powerful strides with his well built muscular calves and wide strong feet that have the appearance that he has walked the earth for a century. As I try to keep to his pace I question him on his family and the history of the land.

Climbing up

Firstly we walk along the beach to an opening in the bush set at the bottom of the mountain. He explains that previously there was a settlement here but due to the bigfala wata (tsunami) that devastated much of the northern region of Vanuatu many people had to move or had died in the tragedy.

As we enter the bush he points out various leaves used in kustom medicine, from curing coughs in children, low blood (anaemia) and leaves for snacking on. We stop at this point to break off leaves of a low lying fern.  With an earnest expression he tells us that we must rub the leaves into the skin on our feet, calves and forearms, as we walk this particular leaf shall ensure we are sturdy, with good balance and reduce the chance of slipping and hurting ourselves.



Fastening leaf



After some time of walking through bush and soft mud we commenced the scramble up a near vertical climb, hauling ourselves up on Banyan tree roots (luckily we had the strength from the kustom leaf!)

At we approached the top Ben called out “awwwwooooa…  awwwwwoooaa” (each island has a different call and for different purposes), he explained that we must sing out to the spirits before entering the land to indicate to them who we are and that we come to cause no harm.

We arrive at a large banyan tree with its enormous roots twisting down into the ground. An ancestor of Ben’s had died here and it is believed that her spirit had formed the tree and is now a part of it.

We walked a little further before Ben stopped me. It is customary to reveal the view in a certain way. Ben tore a large leaf from a nearby bush and fastened it around my head covering my eyes, with only a view of my feet. With a tight grip on my wrist he then lead me through bush for another five minutes before coming to the edge of the cliff and pulling the leaf away from my eyes!



Alex and I at the top!



 Magnificent! The view reveals a beautiful panoramic landscape of the tip of Mota Lava, Ureparapara island, Mota, Gaua and the reef islands.