Community Meal - Easter

On arrival in country I met Marian, I think the thing that frightened me so much was what she told me about the food situation on the island. I believe that for a good few years there had been a great lack of local produce due to weather changes which therefore spoilt crops, the lack of motivation to cultivate and issues with land (hmm… population riSING) leading many people to turn to imported foods, mainly from China, including instant noodles, white rice and spam. Unfortunately people hear really desire “white man’s food” (hm.. yes they mean the packet noodles, spam and sachets of MSG) it make my skin crawl with absolute revulsion, ”please give me some cabbage any day!” (I want to scream) But when you think of the great lengths that people go to in the preparation of the simple yam, it is understandable. Dig and turn the ground, mix it with ash, or burn the dry grasses as fertiliser, plant the yam, wait….. walk you 30minute or 1 hour to look after you land two or three times a week…. Wait a little longer….like 6 months (that is if it the crop hasn’t been spoilt by rain, sun or eaten by wild pigs) you must walk back, dig the ground, strap all your yams to piece of bamboo, walk the long journey back. Find wood, chop wood, build fire, carry water from a creek or spring, peel yam, wash yam, cut yam, boil yam, wait 30 minute… eat… phew and that’s just a yam, you should see them cooking their traditional dishes!


My garden!



No wonder Marian had lost weight. She had kindly planted some string beans and that is where it all started. With a need to occupy my time and on asking my landlady to allow me to measure out a plot I started to dig. Not only has gardening given me some mental reprieve from the general stresses of life here on the island, but at the same time brought me closer to many people here in Torba Province. Local Ni-Vanuatu people are surprised to hear that I have my own garden and are glad to hear of my love for the local “aelan kakai” (islaland food). It is Ansel, a good friend that I must give my appreciation too. Although he reminds me of his lack of schooling, he is a very wise and knowledgeable man when it comes to agriculture, using local resources to build, shooting fish and leaf medicine.



Over the last fifteen months I have developed my garden and now can get a reasonable crop to support me if the way of vegetables. There is no market here, ye that’s right, NO MARKET! Even people from the city forget when they come, everything is traded from house to house, therefore I needed to develop my own supplies for trade, although there is just barely enough for my own consumption, so having to go on trading cake (when I bake), dressing wounds in return for some sort of fruit and the occasional begging for a bunch of ripe bananas, sometime it is not easy.



Numbus my cat and pumpkin leaves



There has been the occasional sand beach market, where the nearby islands of Mota and Mota Lava bring sacks of yams, kamala (sweet potatoes), bananas, manioc (like a potato), taro (also like a potato), pumpkin leaves (my favourite!), coconuts and of course island cabbage



A star bean!



So what vegetables have I grown? Cabbage, cabbage, cabbage, String bean’s as long as your arm! Both red and green, aubergines (although crop poor), okra, copious amounts of fresh ginger, three different types of Pima (chili), bush coriander (with strong leaves), pakchoy, spring onions, maybe 10 attempts at pumpkins but to no avail, a grapefruit tree with sour grapefruit when they come in season and fall down, and I have one pawpaw tree for fruit (maybe one every two-three weeks).



Food for a wedding
(yes that is a bucket of rice!)_



Food (kakai) is pivotal in everything that you do here. To give food is great gesture of kindness and generosity.  Surprisingly to me food has been an important part of my working life, if you want people to come and listen to you talk, it’s usually the food that is the highlight and what determines the success of you workshop, awareness or meeting. And if there is carcass, you’re winning!



Extra carbohydrates please!



I shall certainly miss he food and the great lengths and effort that goes into the preparation. The national dish is laplap (no it’s not a sexual position Amanda :) which is made from either Manioc, Taro or yams, which are grated (ras ras)into a doughy paste, pummelled further, wrapped in cabbage leaves, dipped in coconut cream and baked on a fire under hot stones. Fish, pork of chicken is then served ontop. Another dish and one of my favourite is Narlot. Usually breadfruit (baked for an hour or two on the fire) or Manioc (boiled) then pounded until sticky, pour hot cooked coconut on top, delicious!

 That’s enough talk about food, anyone hungry?